Autumn has come around so quickly, and our gardens are brimming with wonderful produce (all going well). It’s time to harvest and time to plan for the next crop of goodness. Kelly Jean is back with her list of things to do to get the best out of your garden this coming year.
Autumn time, a season of plenty in the vege garden as the summer garden draws to a close. A time of transition from heat to cold and awake to slumber. As air temperatures start to fall and soil moisture levels increase, it is the perfect time for planting and maintenance.
Soil temperatures are warm and damp enough for plants to start sending out roots and getting established before the winter cold sends the garden into dormancy. Air temperatures are cool enough to start slowing growth above ground, giving young tender tips time to harden off before the winter cool really hits.
The leaves put on a show, changing colour and then dropping to create a natural layer of mulch – nature’s protection against the coming winter cold. And it’s time to harvest the summer crops, preserving them to enjoy throughout the year and get the winter vegetables in and established before the cold hits.
The autumn ‘to-do’ list
In early autumn, do your last trim of hedges and mature plants so the young tips that do grow have time to harden off before winter.
Get your winter brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage) planted so they can start growing and get established. The winter cold will slow down growth almost to a halt, so if they are almost mature, the cold will hold them until you’re ready to eat them. Don’t forget to protect them from white butterflies and their hungry caterpillar offspring in the meantime. Covering them completely with bug netting is a good spray-free way. Just ensure there are no eggs on the seedlings when you plant them.
Get moving! If you have intended to move an established plant, now is the time to do it. Dig a channel around under its drip line and then take as much root ball as possible and is practical. Give the top a hard trim so it doesn’t have as much greenery to support after it is transplanted. Applying liquid seaweed (health tonic) or Root-Gro (stimulating root development) every two weeks after transplanting will help it to settle in and start growing. Ensure there is plenty of compost added to the planting hole and avoid applying any fertiliser other than a very slow release fertiliser such as ican Slow Food.
Perennials (plants that live for two or more years and regrow each spring) can be cut back once they die down, and placing some mulch over the top will keep them warm over winter. You also have the option to divide them into smaller plants if you need to reduce the overall size or need a few more plants. In most cases, you can dig around the plant and then put two forks or spades backto- back through the plant and wrench them apart. Repeat until you have the desired size or number of plants.
Spread mulch. If you have mulch in your garden, top up the layer to keep it nice and deep. If you don’t have any mulch laid after a summer like we’ve just had, put some down! Your garden will love you for it and it will make your job easier. It keeps the soil moisture levels even, suppresses weed growth and insulates against the cold weather. Compost, aged bark chips, pea straw or a bagged mulch mix are all excellent options that will improve your soil over time.
Ideally, you are aiming for a layer about 10 cm thick. Just ensure that you keep it away from direct contact with plant stems and tree trunks; these do not appreciate being buried at all! You’ll need to replenish it a few times a year. Late spring and autumn are good times to prepare for the weather extremes of the following season.
Plant spring bulbs. If you want a show of colour in late winter and spring, now is the time to get them in the ground. Anemones, daffodils, ranunculus, hyacinths, tulips … the choices are many, so get in to your local garden centre or plant your ones from last year that you have already lifted. Feed with bulb fertiliser when green tips appear.
Garden hygiene. One of the key elements to preventing garden diseases and pest infestation is ensuring that any infected leaves that have fallen on the ground are collected up and put in the rubbish. Don’t leave them on the ground to reinfect the following year, and don’t put them in the compost to be spread around the garden in the new compost.
As your seasonal plants die down and the structure (or lack of) is highlighted in your garden, it’s an excellent time to add some extra evergreen ‘bones’ to your garden. These will carry it through the winter season. Classic green leaves always look good, but take the time to consider the options of leaf colour and flowers for adding interest over this time. Options like Nandina ‘Gulfstream’ or ‘Lemon and Lime’ with their coloured leaves and Camellias with their colourful blooms and glossy leaves are fantastic options.
Get planting. Autumn is the best time to get new fruiting trees and shrubs planted. They get the opportunity to put down roots and begin establishing before winter dormancy. This gives them an advantage in spring as they are one step ahead in getting fully established before the summer dry and stress hit. If you can get a container-grown fruit tree in autumn, it will be to your advantage. They are smaller sized trees which are easier to transport. It lessens the chance of transplant shock when they haven’t been grown in the open ground, lifted and bagged. It also gives you the chance to train it to shape from a small size.
After the searing heat of the summer and before the cold of winter, autumn is a gift to the gardener. Make the most of the mild conditions and get your garden prepped for the year ahead. The results will speak for themselves!